Friday, 13 July 2012

No Name Road

Since the rain clouds dissolved and the sun is shining, spirits have risen and it's time for action. No dwelling on the past nor pining for the future. 

The time is now

Roland leading 'Ride the Bullet' 5.10d on the 'Stairway to Heaven'. See any holds?
The stunning and 'slightly intimidating' splitter of 'High Plains Drifter' from Pitch 10 of Angels Crest

Fred seconding the first incredible enduro pitch of 'High Plains Drifter'. 5.11a

 (Cheers Fred for leading the second 5.11c boulder pitch!)

A different kind of battle. High balling 'No Excuses for Porn Hair' V5

Topping out with Roland on 'Stairway to Heaven' (12 Pitches of 5.10)

After a brilliant week pushing my barriers on crack climbs, boulder problems and sustained techno sport climbs ('No Name Road' is a route) things are looking good.

The focus on mental training is slowly showing me what is possible when the mind and the body flow together in harmony with false fears and the ego pushed aside.

Each learning experience supplies another piece of armour for the next challenge ahead.

I don't know where that's going to be, how hard it is or how scared i'll be but i'll relish every step of the way down this no name road. 

Sunday, 1 July 2012

No Place Like Home

It's good to be back!

I have last years bag of new skills in my arsenal and hundreds of vertical meters under my belt.

 I'm ready for more.

 During the first week, i commence a blast of bouldering to boost my power endurance but to my egos surprise, the opposite of what i want happens. The sloping holds, the razor crimps, the engaging powerful sequences. They shut me down. I am broken and can hardly lift my flimsy arms.

At first i am a little shocked, but the ego touches down and i am grateful for this pain.

Why? Because i needed to be reminded that you must always have room in your mind to learn and to give as much of your ability as you possibly can in the moment. I was idle and expected to float the same boulder problems from last year. With complacency therefore, i was not able to give my best. Each and every challenge you solve adds to your armour and makes you a better person. It is with this mindset, that i go forth and meet the next challenge head on with open arms.
Sticking the crux on 'Shots Fired!' V4

Any decrease in the vertical miles and flat terrain for a sustained time will always soften the brain but we will be reminded to focus time and again. I wouldn't trade those 3 months in England for anything though. I got to see my cousin Fab & Jerome get married which was the happiest event ever witnessed! I got to explore and recognize my home country for its own beautiful quality. (Not to mention falling in love with sport climbing again, thanks to Spain!).

The main thing for me though is the ever strengthening support and respect from my friends and family that is always greatly appreciated. I love you all, because you guys are getting to know this crazy pursuit and the fact that i might just pull it off too!

Learning to crank on the crimps on 'Superdyke', a very hard (aka sandbagged) V3

It's pretty much been a monsoon for the last few days so it's been a good time to rest up. Then it's time for the long and hard stuff!